A home inspection uncovers problems that aren’t visible during a showing — foundation cracks behind drywall, knob-and-tube wiring in the attic, water damage under bathroom tiles — and gives you information to negotiate the price or walk away before you’re committed. In competitive markets, some buyers waive the inspection condition, which means taking the home as it is; a pre-offer inspection (done before submitting your bid) lets a buyer make a firm offer while still knowing what they’re buying.
What a Home Inspector Checks
| System | What’s Inspected | Common Issues Found |
|---|---|---|
| Roof | Shingles, flashing, vents, gutters, chimneys | Missing/damaged shingles, leaks, poor flashing |
| Exterior | Siding, windows, doors, grading, foundation visible | Cracks, rot, poor drainage, missing caulking |
| Foundation | Cracks, moisture, structural integrity | Hairline vs structural cracks, water intrusion |
| Plumbing | Pipes, fixtures, water heater, water pressure | Lead pipes, low pressure, leaks, old water heater |
| Electrical | Panel, wiring, outlets, GFCI, smoke detectors | Knob-and-tube, aluminum wiring, overloaded panel |
| HVAC | Furnace, AC, ductwork, ventilation | Old furnace, poor efficiency, blocked ducts |
| Attic | Insulation, ventilation, structure, moisture | Insufficient insulation, poor ventilation, mold |
| Basement | Foundation walls, moisture, sump pump, floor | Water stains, efflorescence, cracks, mold |
| Interior | Walls, ceilings, floors, stairs, railings | Cracks (cosmetic vs structural), uneven floors |
| Kitchen/bath | Fixtures, ventilation, moisture | Poor ventilation, water damage under sinks |
| Garage | Structure, door operation, firewall | Missing firewall between garage and house |
Home Inspection Costs by Property Type
| Property Type | Price Range | Duration |
|---|---|---|
| Condo (apartment) | $250–$400 | 1–2 hours |
| Townhouse | $350–$500 | 2–3 hours |
| Semi-detached | $400–$550 | 2–3 hours |
| Detached house (under 2,000 sq ft) | $400–$600 | 2.5–4 hours |
| Detached house (2,000–3,500 sq ft) | $500–$700 | 3–4 hours |
| Large house (3,500+ sq ft) | $600–$900+ | 4–5 hours |
| Older home (50+ years) | $500–$800 | 3–5 hours |
| Rural property with well/septic | $600–$1,000+ | 3–5 hours |
These are typical ranges, not quotes: prices vary by city, inspector and the home itself, so compare a few quotes.
Additional Specialized Inspections
| Inspection | Cost | When Needed |
|---|---|---|
| Radon testing | $150–$300 | All homes (Health Canada recommends testing every home, with a long-term test of at least 3 months) |
| Mold inspection | $300–$600 | Visible mold, musty smell, water damage history |
| Asbestos testing | $200–$500 | Homes built before 1990 (in insulation, tiles, siding) |
| WETT inspection (wood-burning) | $200–$350 | Fireplaces, wood stoves, pellet stoves |
| Sewer line camera inspection | $250–$500 | Older homes (50+ years), mature trees near sewer |
| Well water testing | $100–$300 | Rural properties with private wells |
| Septic system inspection | $300–$600 | Rural properties with septic tanks |
| Oil tank search (underground) | $200–$400 | Older properties that may have had oil heating |
| Thermal imaging | $150–$300 (add-on) | Detect insulation gaps, moisture behind walls |
| Pool/hot tub inspection | $150–$300 | Properties with pools |
Major Red Flags That May Mean Walk Away
The table below lists issues that often lead buyers to reconsider. Structural foundation cracks, active mold, knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring, and buried oil tanks are among the most expensive problems to remediate and the hardest to fully resolve, so a price reduction may not cover the real cost of fixing them properly. An inspector can’t see behind every wall, but a thorough inspection catches many of the warning signs. Several red flags in one property add up quickly.
| Issue | Estimated Repair Cost | Why It’s Serious |
|---|---|---|
| Structural foundation cracks | $10,000–$50,000+ | Compromises entire building |
| Active mold (large area) | $5,000–$30,000 | Health risk, indicates moisture problem |
| Knob-and-tube wiring (full house) | $8,000–$20,000 | Fire risk, insurance issues |
| Aluminum wiring | $5,000–$15,000 | Fire risk, insurance issues |
| Roof needs full replacement | $8,000–$25,000 | If not reflected in price |
| Water in basement (chronic) | $10,000–$30,000+ | Indicates foundation/drainage issues |
| Buried oil tank | $10,000–$50,000+ (remediation) | Environmental liability |
| Asbestos throughout | $10,000–$50,000+ | Removal is expensive and hazardous |
| Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel | $3,000–$5,000 | Known fire hazard |
| Major plumbing failures (polybutylene or Kitec) | $10,000–$30,000 | Pipes prone to failure |
Issues That Are Negotiable
| Issue | Typical Cost | Negotiation Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Roof with 3–5 years remaining | $8,000–$20,000 | Ask for price reduction or credit |
| Aging furnace (15+ years) | $3,000–$6,000 | Request credit for replacement |
| Old water heater (10+ years) | $1,500–$3,000 | Include in negotiation |
| Minor electrical updates | $1,000–$3,000 | Request seller fix before closing |
| Grading/drainage issues | $2,000–$5,000 | Price reduction |
| Bathroom/kitchen exhaust venting wrong | $500–$2,000 | Seller fix or credit |
| Missing GFCI outlets | $500–$1,500 | Seller fix |
| Minor foundation hairline cracks | Monitor (not urgent) | May not warrant negotiation |
Pre-Offer vs Post-Offer Inspection
| Feature | Post-Offer (Traditional) | Pre-Offer Inspection |
|---|---|---|
| When | After accepted offer, during condition period | Before submitting offer |
| Cost | Standard ($400–$600) | Standard ($400–$600) |
| Risk | Low — you can walk away | You pay even if you don’t win the bid |
| Offer strength | Weaker (conditional on inspection) | Stronger (can waive condition) |
| Best for | Buyer’s market (normal conditions) | Hot market (bidding wars) |
| Downside | May lose property if outbid on conditions | Pay $400–$600 with no guarantee |
Home Inspection Checklist (What to Ask About)
| Category | Questions to Ask |
|---|---|
| Roof | How old? How many layers? Any leaks or repairs? |
| Foundation | Any cracks? Evidence of moisture? Is it level? |
| Electrical | What type of wiring? Panel size (100 vs 200 amp)? |
| Plumbing | Pipe material (copper, PEX, galvanized)? Water heater age? |
| HVAC | Furnace and AC age? Last serviced? Ductwork condition? |
| Insulation | Attic insulation R-value? Basement insulated? |
| Moisture | Any signs of current or past water damage? |
| Safety | Smoke detectors, CO detectors, GFCI outlets? |
| Exterior | Grading slope away from house? Drainage issues? |
| Estimate | What are the top 3 most expensive issues? |
How to Choose a Home Inspector
| Criteria | What to Look For |
|---|---|
| Licence or certification | A provincial licence where one is required (British Columbia and Alberta license home inspectors); elsewhere, membership in a professional inspector association |
| Experience | A long track record, ideally with a construction background |
| Insurance | Errors and omissions (E&O) insurance |
| Sample report | Detailed with photos, not just a checklist |
| Duration | Minimum 2–3 hours for a house |
| You can attend | Inspector who encourages you to be present and ask questions |
| References | Check Google reviews, ask your real estate agent |
What an inspection does not cover
| Not Included in Standard Inspection | Why | Additional Test Available |
|---|---|---|
| Inside walls (behind drywall) | Inspection is visual and non-invasive | Thermal imaging can detect moisture and insulation gaps |
| Radon levels | Health Canada recommends a long-term test of at least 3 months | Radon test |
| Mould testing (air quality) | Requires lab analysis | Mould air quality test |
| Asbestos identification | Requires lab sample analysis | Asbestos testing |
| Vermiculite insulation testing | May contain asbestos, which requires a lab | Sample sent to a lab |
| Buried oil tank | Cannot be seen visually | Oil tank search (for example, ground-penetrating radar) |
| Well water quality | Requires lab testing | Water test |
| Septic system inspection | Requires pumping and camera | Septic inspection |
| Pool and hot tub | Often excluded from standard inspection | Pool inspection |
| Pest/termite inspection | Specialist required: inspectors note evidence but don’t confirm | Pest inspection |
Costs for the common add-on tests are in the specialized inspections table above.
The inspection walkthrough, room by room
Exterior
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Roof (from ground or ladder) | Shingle condition, flashing, moss/algae, sagging, number of layers | Missing shingles, visible patches, sagging ridge line |
| Gutters and downspouts | Attached, draining away from foundation, no blockages | Overflowing gutters, downspouts dumping water at foundation |
| Siding and exterior walls | Cracks, rot, gaps, paint condition, siding type | Wood rot near windows or at ground level; gaps where pests enter |
| Foundation (visible) | Cracks, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), water staining | Horizontal cracks (most serious), stair-step cracks in brick |
| Grading | Slope away from foundation (a common guideline is about 6 inches of drop over the first 10 feet) | Flat or negative grading = water intrusion risk |
| Windows and doors (exterior) | Caulking, weather-stripping, rot, seals | Fogged double-pane windows (failed seals); wood rot on frames |
| Driveway and walkways | Cracks, heaving, trip hazards | Large cracks or significant settling |
| Deck and balcony | Structure, railing stability, ledger board attachment, rot | Wobbly railings, soft spots in decking, poor ledger connection to house |
Basement / Foundation
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Foundation walls | Cracks, bowing, water staining, efflorescence | Any crack wider than 1/4 inch; horizontal cracks; bowing walls |
| Floor | Cracks in concrete slab, moisture, unevenness | Standing water, damp spots, musty smell |
| Sump pump | Present, operational, discharge location | Does it work? Does it discharge away from the foundation? |
| Waterproofing | Evidence of past water intrusion, weeping tile drain | Staining on walls or floor, dehumidifier running constantly |
| Columns and beams | Structural support condition, rust, wood rot | Rusted steel columns, wood beams with rot or insect damage |
| Insulation | Type (fibreglass, spray foam, vermiculite), coverage, moisture behind | Vermiculite (asbestos risk); wet insulation; missing coverage |
Electrical System
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Main panel | Brand, age, capacity (100A, 200A), breaker condition, signs of overheating | Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels (known fire hazards); scorch marks; double-tapped breakers |
| Wiring type | Copper, aluminum, knob-and-tube | Knob-and-tube (common in homes built before the 1950s) and aluminum wiring (1960s–1970s) need special attention |
| GFCI outlets | Present in kitchens, bathrooms, exterior, garage (required in these locations by current electrical code) | Missing GFCI in wet areas is a safety issue |
| AFCI breakers | Required for bedrooms and, under recent electrical codes, most other household outlets in newer builds | Older homes won’t have them — not a deal-breaker but note it |
| Outlets and switches | Grounding, polarity, function | Ungrounded 3-prong outlets (common in older homes); dead outlets |
Plumbing
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Water supply pipes | Material (copper, PEX, galvanized, polybutylene), leaks, corrosion | Galvanized pipes (rust, low pressure), grey polybutylene (Poly-B) and Kitec (orange or blue pipe with brass fittings), which have failure histories |
| Drain pipes | Material (ABS, PVC, cast iron, lead), flow rate, leaks | Cast iron (rust through after 50–80 years); slow drains; sewage smell |
| Water heater | Age, type (tank vs tankless), capacity, condition | Age over 10 years (tank) or 15 years (tankless) = near end of life |
| Shut-off valves | Main shut-off works, individual fixture shut-offs present | Corroded or seized valves that don’t turn |
| Water pressure | Measured with gauge (40–80 PSI is normal) | Below 40 PSI = supply issue; above 80 PSI = needs pressure-reducing valve |
| Visible leaks | Under sinks, around toilets, at pipe connections | Active drips, water staining, mold at pipe connections |
HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning)
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Furnace | Age, type, operation, heat exchanger (visual), venting | Age over 15–20 years = near end of life; cracks in heat exchanger = carbon monoxide risk |
| Air conditioning | Age, operation, refrigerant lines, condensate drain | Age over 12–15 years; not cooling during test; ice on lines |
| Ductwork | Connections, insulation, airflow | Disconnected ducts in basement or attic; poor airflow to specific rooms |
| Thermostat | Type, function, calibration | Non-programmable thermostat = energy waste (easy upgrade) |
| Ventilation | Bathroom fans vent to exterior, range hood vents to exterior, HRV/ERV | Bathroom fans venting into attic (moisture damage); no range hood ducting |
| Fireplace / wood stove | Damper operation, firebox condition, clearances | No WETT inspection done (many insurers ask for one); cracked firebox |
Kitchen
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Plumbing | Sink, faucet, supply lines, drain, dishwasher connection, shut-offs | Leaks under sink; poor dishwasher drainage; old supply lines |
| Electrical | GFCI outlets, dedicated circuits for major appliances | No GFCI near sink; insufficient circuits (tripping breakers) |
| Ventilation | Range hood venting to exterior | Recirculating hood (filters air back into kitchen) vs ducted to outside |
| Counters and cabinets | Water damage, soft spots, mold risk areas | Swelling at sink area; mold behind or under cabinets |
| Floor | Condition, water damage, levelness | Soft spots near dishwasher or sink (water damage beneath) |
Bathrooms
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet | Secure to floor, flange condition, flush function | Rocking toilet = damaged wax seal = water damage below |
| Tub / shower | Caulking, tile grout, water damage, drain | Missing or cracked caulk around tub/shower (water penetration behind walls) |
| Ventilation | Exhaust fan present and venting to exterior | No fan or fan venting into attic = moisture and mold risk |
| Plumbing | Supply valve function, water pressure, drain speed | Slow drains; low pressure; no shut-off valves |
| Walls and ceiling | Water stains, bubbling paint, mold | Staining on ceiling below (if upstairs bathroom) = active leak |
Attic
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Roof sheathing (from inside) | Daylight showing through, water stains, mold, rot | Dark staining = past or present leaks; mold on sheathing |
| Insulation | Type, depth/R-value, coverage, vapour barrier | Well below what current code requires for a new home (it varies by province and climate zone); gaps or compressed insulation |
| Ventilation | Soffit vents, ridge vent, unblocked airflow | Blocked soffit vents = moisture buildup; no ridge or roof vents |
| Structure | Rafters, trusses, condition, modifications | Cut or modified trusses (serious structural concern); sagging |
| Bathroom exhaust | Properly ducted to exterior | Exhaust dumping into attic = major moisture and mold source |
| Vermiculite insulation | Present = potential asbestos | Health Canada advises not disturbing it; professional testing before any remediation |
Living Areas and Bedrooms
| Component | What the Inspector Checks | What You Should Watch For |
|---|---|---|
| Windows | Operation, seals, locks, condensation | Fogged units (failed seal); windows that won’t open (egress concern in bedrooms) |
| Walls and ceilings | Cracks, water stains, unevenness | Diagonal cracks at corners of door/window frames = possible structural movement |
| Floors | Levelness, squeaks, soft spots | Significant slope (place a ball: does it roll?) = possible structural issue |
| Smoke and CO detectors | Present on every level and outside bedrooms | Missing detectors = immediate safety upgrade needed |
| Electrical | Outlets, light switches, ceiling fixtures | Bedrooms require AFCI protection in newer electrical codes |
The Bottom Line
A standard inspection costs a few hundred dollars, while the hidden problems it can reveal (foundation, wiring, plumbing, a buried oil tank) can cost tens of thousands to fix. In a bidding war, a pre-offer inspection is the alternative to waiving the condition blind. Buyers who attend in person can ask questions as they go, and structural, electrical and plumbing findings usually matter more than cosmetic ones.
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